Marinero by Jef Montes
About the project
Inspired by the contrast of the sea and plastic pollution. Marinero is the first project of Studio Adaptive Skins. The focus of Marinero is to create an architectural blueprint that transforms organically over the course of time due to different meteorological conditions. The blueprint is one woven square that forms the base of diverse variations. Because the finishing is already incorporated within the woven pattern, the materials take its shape by the various conditions rather than using traditional cutting and tailoring techniques. The materials used to create fibers for the woven square will be divided into categories. The main categories are: 1. Nylon (recycled plastic waste from the sea as fishing nets) 2. Shrinking yarns (yarns that shrink and twist due to heat, moisture and steam); 3. Seaweed and other sea related natural materials. All these materials need to be transformed into usable threads that can be used for the TextileLab machines. The vision is to design a new kind of production system that results into adaptive garments that grow with us individually. Plastic will be collected from the sea and transformed into new threads. These plastic threads will be used in combination with the natural fibers from sea based materials (horizontal versus vertical). The weavings have a vertical main chain of nylon and horizontal integrated variable threads. The contrast of these threads cause friction and result into dynamic shapes during different meteorological conditions as rain, heavy wind or drought. The aim is to be as slow and sustainable as possible.
To describe my artistic process will be that its an ongoing process. Studio Adaptive Skins is a textile architecture studio based in Arnhem with a strong focus on responsive materials. A new approach on creating shape within the materials rather than cutting patterns out of 2D fabric. The materials are applied on the human skin but also connected to the structure of a building and interior. Responsive to the human and its surrounding the textiles improve the function and experience of: body, light, energy, areas, acoustics and climate.
I have been working as a fashion designer since 2012. After graduating for my Bachelor degree at the institute of the arts Arnhem I started working on fabric projects. As a designer I felt the need to make my own fabrics to create the ideas that I had in my mind. In the beginning it started as a creative process capturing my own signature. But afterwards I started to react on what I experienced as a designer. The first project that I did was Illuminosa. Within this project I focused on upcycled fiberglass materials made from my own studio. During the presentation I noticed that I wanted the materials to react on that moment rather than just showing of the clothing. So capturing the process was more important. With support from Creative Industries Fund NL Montes I was able to research architectural materials, using professional weaving machines. Creating luxurious fabrics by using waste materials. The second project Velero was designed and developed in collaboration with TextileLab Tilburg. This project was based on my passion and personal connection with the maritime world. The third project Tormenta reflects a Storm around the body and consists of 6 nylon material categories that were recycled from fishing nets. For my international debut I did a crowdfunding campaign to be able to finance my international team. After my Paris presentation I was selected for 33rd Hyères award 2018. This was a very key moment for me to present my vision to international professionals. This chance helped me to make the next step. I got inspired and started Studio Adaptive Skins with a new future focus and vision in mind.
Image: Jef Montes (C) TextielMuseum-TextielLab